Shepherd’s of Westminster

Westminster is not my normal stomping ground, and therefore Marsham Street isn’t one of those roads that I’d usually wander along, soon to find myself lured into the glow of potential watering holes like a boozy moth. I’ve realised this is a shame though, as I recently came across Shepherd’s – a rather lovely bar that makes a trip here well worth it.

The road where Shepherd’s is located is pretty nondescript, tucked away out of the action and surrounded by plenty of residential properties. Marsham Court is a lovely art-deco building that is currently, unfortunately, disguised by scaffolding. But don’t let this put you off, because as soon as you’ve ascended those steps and are through the doors then a world of classic sophistication awaits.

In 2013 the entrepreneur and author Lionel Zetter decided to restore Shepherd’s to its former glory, creating the same buzz around the establishment as when it was owned by the likes of Sir Michael Caine and Richard Shepherd. There is definitely a feeling of glittering tradition in the décor, as well as a sense of cool, calm confidence. The glinting bar takes up the main portion of the entrance, coaxing visitors to perch at one of the leather stools and peruse the menu. Pale walls and dark wood – the staple of all refined bars – are given a pep by chairs the colour of burnt orange and soft green. The space has been divided well – if you don’t want to sit at the bar, then you can rest in these sumptuous seats around a large table, or head to the restaurant if you’re after more sustenance.

Since I arrive on a Sunday morning then I think it prudent to have a Bloody Mary (It’s nearly afternoon at 11.58am, so don’t judge me too much). It’s quiet, with some weekend jazz playing, and the staff looking as pristine as a fresh spring morning in their pressed shirts and neat waistcoats.

My waitress introduces herself as ‘Yoda’ – a pretty, enthusiastic young lady who informs me they have a special twist on the Bloody Mary – it is made with garlic vodka, and is this okay? Well, I love the stinky stuff, and the only partner I’m spending the day with is my godfather, so bring it on. I ask for it 8 on the spice scale – Yoda nods knowingly, and I sit back and absorb the atmosphere.

It certainly looks the part – a deep, rooster red with a shaft of celery poking out like a green mast. The Tabasco is on the side, and I’m told that, apart from the garlic vodka, horseradish and olive brine is used to give it a fuller flavour, so spice might not be necessary. I give it a sip – and indeed, there is an incredible depth of flavour, layers of smokiness and a complexity that is wonderful. It’s not as spicy as I would usually drink it, but then, why add heat when it’s this delicious. It’s a sign of a good BM when you don’t nuke it with spice, and I’m very impressed.

My godfather arrives, instantly taken with the suave and yet not stuffy surroundings, and also peruses the menu. It’s not too complex – there are seventeen options in all, ranging from sparkling, contemporary and classic, with famous examples like Blood and Sand sharing page space with interesting items such as the Highlander, made with Macallan and hazelnut liqueur. Yoda recommends the Shepherd’s special, using rosemary infused gin, grapefruit bitters and elderflower. For a real smack of gin, then the ‘Shepherd’s’ is advised, while a softer example comes courtesy of the ‘Shepherd’s Little Sister’, which is also lengthened with champagne. We try one of each, with the former arriving in a martini glass and being strong, straight to the point, and wonderfully clean on the palate. The citrus zing of grapefruit is mellowed nicely by the elderflower sweetness, and the bubbles in the Little Sister make it a charm to sip. It’s the cocktail equivalent of a summer’s garden party – close your eyes and you can imagine the ladies with large parasols, wearing white dresses and sashaying around the lawn.

We enjoy a little platter of intriguing nibbles next – a heavenly morsel of burnt mackerel with heritage tomato; a piece of delicate salmon with some cucumber jelly that melts to join the tang of seaside; a morel mushroom that, when popped in the mouth, actually explodes with a delicious vinegar sweet-sharpness; and then a little bowl of vivid green chilled pea soup, radiant with the taste of truffle. It’s a selection from the starters on the menu and proves that the kitchen is delivering the same standard of impressive work that the bar is doing.

Next up I go for a Blood and Sand, choosing to mix it up a bit with Woodford Bourbon. It’s wonderful – with the almond and cherry comfort of a bakewell tart, but without the sickliness. My drinking partner goes for a Dark and Stormy, and this is another classic completed well – refreshing, long, shimmering the colour of straw in sunlight.

Lastly, I’m treated to a special offering from the kitchen. Apparently Shepherd’s are introducing an exciting new cocktail and food pairing menu with Chase vodka cocktails, which I am excited to try in the future, and so a small competitive streak has appeared between the kitchen and bar, whereby they try and outdo each other. I am presented with the kitchen’s offering – apple Chase vodka with lemony foam brightening the surface and blueberries bobbing around in the liquid. It looks pretty, and tastes darn good too, with a well-executed balance of flavour. The bright yellow foam is zesty and puckers the mouth, while the apple vodka adds a nice garden freshness. It’s the perfect way to end – although am keen to try the bar’s choices in the future since Yoda certainly knows how to mix a cocktail.

We finish up and emerge into the sunshine, slightly sad to be leaving the capsule of old school glamour that Shepherd’s has created. But I definitely think I will make an effort to pass this way again, since this reinvented classic is ticking all the boxes, and I’ve joined their flock of fans.