Cocktail Bar Review: Oskar`s Bar at Dabbous, London

I’ve heard that it is easier to get elected to leader of the free world than it is a reservation at Dabbous restaurant. Fortunately, it is a whole lot more straightforward to find a space to perch in the industrial-chic basement bar that is Oskar’s. So easy in fact, that whilst upstairs is packed with diners eagerly anticipating the arrival of the next dish on London’s hottest menu, a visit early in the week could very well see you have the choice of any table in the bar. Apparently the foodie crowd haven’t quite cottoned on to the fact that the bar is also a must-visit destination.

Soft furnishings clearly weren’t at the top of the shopping list when Oskar’s was conceived. It’s all concrete, metal and wood. This is largely a good thing, although at quieter times it does make for a slightly empty feel to the place with all those echoes bouncing about. The minimalist-industrialness of this bar also extends to the food which, by contrast, doesn’t quite cut the mustard. At £16 the slice of barbecued Iberia pork served with acorn praline, turnip tops and apple vinegar was well cooked but ultimately not what you want to provide some sustenance alongside a few drinks.

The cocktails however rarely veer far from innovative, flavoursome, and understatedly brilliant. Most demonstrate an understanding of flavour combinations, that are essential for a bar to move up from simply good into the highest echelons of praise. Some, like the Disco Rhubarb with its blend of Aquavit, rhubarb syrup and apple juice are simple easy drinking numbers that won’t cause too much excitement but are thoroughly satisfying to a parched palate. Others such as the Beetroot Margarita border on the definition of genius. In this case a traditional Margarita combination of tequila, lime and agave syrup is lengthened slightly by beetroot and orange juice to create an effect that tastes as thought someone mated the Margarita with a Bloody Mary. The offspring is a real beauty. A rare skill amongst cocktail bars is the ability to take a spirit that is often perceived to be ‘challenging’ to unaccustomed palates such as Mezcal, and turn it into a drink that surely no-one could turn down. ‘That Drink With Mezca;’ does just that; the smokiness of the Mezcal is balanced by sweetness from Corn whiskey and a palate-pleasing fruitiness from Apricot Brandy and passion fruit. Do yourself a favour and go order one.

Perhaps the most exciting element on this bar’s list are the beer cocktails. Beer is too often consigned to the back pages of cocktail bar menus, but here they are found bang-slap in the middle, and used with intelligence and creativity. The cheesily named Beer Grylls is the pick of the bunch, achieving a tricky feat of tasting no more complex than the most complex and intensely fruity white beer you will ever have the pleasure of trying.

Oskar’s Bar is one of the very best opening’s in London in recent times. With a few more customer’s to give the atmosphere a bit of a boost, this will soon be in contention for all those ‘best bar’ lists that blight the industry.

4 STARS out of 5

The Cocktail Geek